What do Mick Jagger, David Bowie, Prince Charles, and Boy George have in common? These and other sharply dressed, sexually secure, 21st-century men are incorporating skirts into their wardrobes. In this provocative, one-of-a-kind book, Andrew Bolton traces the warrior origins of kilts and sarongs and reveals how, far from feminizing men, skirts actually reinforce their virility. Some 150 photographs illustrate this colorful salute to the growing numbers of the few, if proud, men in skirts.
The book focuses on the work of innovative designers whose approach to supermodern clothing fuses high style and 21st-century technology. They have all appropriated ideas and materials which were previously on the margins of fashion - such as those used in high-performance sportswear and riot gear - to address the challenges of the urban environment. Their clothes are functional and adapted to the public spaces of the supermodern world: supermarkets, airports, motorways - and the street. They are designed to anticipate all contingencies, offering protection and security in an increasingly alien urban environment. Sections cover concepts such as multiple functionality, mobility, shelter, protection, identity and super-invisibility featuring the work of designers such as CP Company, who have produced a jacket with a built-in anti-smog mask, Vexed Generation whose parkas disguise the identity of the wearer and act as urban armour, Mandarina Duck who have devised a camouflage system for the street, and Levi's who have produced a range of jackets equipped with fully integrated communications systems. With its stylish page design and lively commentary, this is a book that will appeal to all lovers of fashion, radial design and innovation....
Received First Prize in the 2005 American Association of Museums Publications Design Competition Since prehistoric times, furs and feathers have been used not only for warmth and protection but also for display and adornment. Offering lively insights into the decorative possibilities of pelts and plumes, WILD: Fashion Untamed examines fur's ability to announce the wealth and status of the wearer by looking at the clothing of Renaissance aristocrats as well as that of contemporary Hip-Hop performers such as P. Diddy and Missy Elliott. WILD also examines how pelts and plumes have come to define ideals of femininity by quoting the physical and sexual characteristics of birds and beasts. Examples include an unprecedented array of designs by Azzedine Alaïa, Roberto Cavalli, Dolce and Gabbana, John Galliano for Christian Dior, Jean Paul Gaultier, Alexander McQueen, Thierry Mugler, and Yohji Yamamoto. The book also features fantastical feathered costumes of Las Vegas showgirls and coquettish "birds of paradise" creations by milliners Stephen Jones and Philip Treacy. Lavishly illustrated and entertainingly written, WILD reveals how faunal apparel, whether in the form of pelts, plumes, prints, or animal symbolism, has represented and will continue to represent one of man's more primal instincts. Andrew Bolton is the Associate Curator of the Costume Institute of The Metropolitan Museum of Art.
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